Bud rot (also known as gray mold or botrytis) is one of the most devastating fungal diseases to hit marijuana crops.
It thrives in cool temperate climates where a high level of humidity is present.
Bud rot is so harmful to your plants that it could destroy your whole garden of marijuana plants in less than one week!
It will kill anything in its path, including seeds that are sitting in the soil and very young plants that have only just popped up.
It’s a marijuana grower’s absolute worst nightmare. You, therefore, need to do everything in your power to keep gray mold from infesting your precious plants.
What is bud rot on cannabis plants?
Gray mold, or bud rot, is a fungal disease that lives best in cool, humid, temperate climates.
It is not location-specific and it attacks marijuana plants in all stages of life.
Bud rotcomes from a fungus called Botrytis cinerea.
This fungus can rot your buds from the inside out – thus gray mold’s nickname, “bud rot.”
Botrytis can ruin other plants besides marijuana (Wine grapes, strawberries, and peonies)
Download my free Grow Bible for more troubleshooting guides.
Bud rotcan reach your plants any time through its dusty gray mold spores.
Plants need to have actual contact with gray mold spores in order to get bud rot – otherwise it is impossible. These spores are extremely easy to transport, unfortunately.
Once they have reached your site, they get inside your actual plants by entering through a “wound” or tear in the external plant tissue.
If you train your plants, their stems might have cracks that mold could travel through.
Any damage caused by caterpillars, snails, worms, mildew, or other pests can also create a “tunnel” of sorts for bud rot to get inside your plant.
Signs of weed plant bud rot
Bud rot bores into the youngest stems right where the soil sits and then turns these stems brown, making them soft and rotting.
The stems then lose rigidity and fall over, or “damp off.”
Gray mold also likes to attack the stems of older, more mature plants.
It first forms a brownish-gray mycelium mass, which looks like a foundation of sorts.
This sort of smothers the plant, making it turn yellow because it doesn’t have enough chlorophyll to remain its healthy green color.
If the bud rot circles all the way around the stem, it will weaken it until it has lots of cankers and is actually soft.
There will be breakage where the cankers are, and any growth above this hub of disease on the stem will start wilting.
That is only part one of bud rot’s devastating behavior.
After attacking the stem, it will next move on to your female marijuana plants’ moist buds.
The leaves will start turning brown and will wilt, and then the pistils will follow suit.
The buds will eventually be totally covered in the gray mycelium and will turn into a grayish-brown slime – making them totally useless when you harvest your plants.
Luckily we at ILGM have created mold protector, which is available in my Bergman’s Plant Protector package! This will ensure that bud rot will have almost zero chance to take a hold of your plants!
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Bud rot materializes in different ways.
It can affect only the biggest and fattest buds of your plant, or (especially if conditions are particularly wet) it could form visible spots all over the plant.
The cola might also be the only part of the plant that starts to turn darker and discolored, and maybe is even drying up.
The outside of the buds will look like it is drying in parts. The rest of the plant, on the other hand, may still appear to be thriving.
Bud rot will always target the wettest spots on your plants first. This is why we must work to avoid bud rot, and also prevent bud rot in healthy plants.
If your plants have large colas, they have a large area inside that receives no air exposure and is therefore very moist.
This means that this attacker is very likely to target these big colas first.
People generally start to notice a bud rot infestation once they notice deadened spots on their marijuana plant.
It might also show up as white mold on the bud’s exterior at the beginning. If you catch it at this stage, you should take immediate action.
If it is indeed bud rot, you will be able to see that the inside of the bud is a dark gray or brown and appears to be dusty.
Unfortunately, since bud rot moves so rapidly, it is unlikely that you will catch it when it is white and fluffy in its early stage.
You are most likely to find yourself with a bud rot problem if your plants are growing in a low-light environment.
It is known as gray mold because, although it starts out a powdery white color, It turns into brown or smoky gray color.
Once you see these and other colors, you will know that the damage to your plant is already extensive.
Not sure if your marijuana plants suffer from a bud rot infection? Check the article Marijuana diseases for a list with pictures of all possible marijuana diseases
How to identify cannabis bud rot
Bud rot for indoor growing
Now you probably understand the importance of avoiding gray mold from growing on your marijuana plants at all costs.
If you are an indoor grower, there are certain steps you can take to decrease the chances of it ever becoming a problem.
First and foremost, your plants need a warm, dry, breezy environment to live in.
For instance, you should always keep the grow room temperature higher than 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Don’t make the room so humid that your plants are visibly wet.
The humidity should be kept below 50% at all times. These elements cannot be controlled in outdoor environments, of course.
Keeping your plants’ leaf density down is also a good way to increase air exposure and, therefore, decrease the likelihood of gray mold developing on your plant.
Just be sure you don’t take away too many leaves because you still need as many as possible to keep pumping light energy into your plant for a successful flowering phase and harvest.
Prioritize which leaves you remove by targeting ones that are covering other leaves or sites where buds grow.
Bud rot for outdoor growing
If you are an outdoor marijuana grower, hopefully, you started your growing season off right by choosing a strain of marijuana that is well suited to your specific climate. We go over some ways to prevent bud rot on your cannabis plants, specially outdoor plants here.
If you live in a rainy and cool area, for instance, you should probably choose a strain that is specifically designed for cool, rainy climates.
One such strain would be one that automatically enters the flowering phase, meaning its life is shorter than an average marijuana plant.
Know how to perfectly time your harvest so you can maximize your yield. Download our free mini harvesting guide
You can take some extra steps that you might not have thought about as well, such as changing your clothes before stepping into your cannabis grow setup.
This will limit the spores and pests that can be carried in via your clothes. If you have a house pet, keep it away!
They can easily transport fungi and other living things you won’t want near your plants.
You should also sanitize pruning shears every time you plan on using them so as not to transport any fungi or bacteria from the blades to the plants.
Most of these precautions will work the same for outdoor grow areas as well.
If you water your marijuana plants during the day rather than at night, your plants will have an adequate amount of time to dry off before darkness falls again.
This same principle applies to indoor gardens as well
Just make sure you water your plants early enough so they can dry before you turn off the lights.
Gray Mold loves moisture and darkness, so at least take away one of those elements to lower the chances of it infecting your plants.
One of the most important ways of keeping it from finding its way to your plants is to keep proper ventilation within your grow room.
The moving air should go through every bit of every plant. Don’t be afraid of working hard during this tricky planning process.
You can also be more active in the prevention of bud rot in your cannabis plants..
Try spraying bacillus subtilis or an oil spray with neem oil or sesame oil onto your plants to prevent bud rot it or form a barrier that doesn’t let mold germinate.
You can also look into using Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO3) to keep from molds and fungi from starting to grow.
This is an organic product that comes from humans, animals, and plants – it is a sort of pre-existing self-defense system.
If bud rot has found its way to your cannabis plants despite taking all these precautions, all is not lost – at least not yet.
If you spot a plant that is clearly diseased or dead from gray mold, remove it completely and destroy it.
Do this to every plant you see that has the infestation. Obviously don’t add the destroyed plants to your compost pile, since it would cause even more problems.
Simply put the whole plant into a sealable plastic bag and throw it away tightly sealed.
If you are absolutely dedicated to keeping your plants where they are instead of discarding them immediately, you can instead prune the affected leaves and buds.
Once you have used pruners to remove the affected parts, clean them thoroughly with rubbing alcohol or peroxide.
Another method commonly used is the application of a bordeaux mixture made up of copper sulfate and slaked line.
This is what most vineyard owners use to keep bud rot under control.
copper spray is another option that can actually be used all the way until your plant’s day of harvest.
This works best when you will spray it onto your plants each week for ten days.
Finally, you can either use sulfur burners or spray your plants with sulfur in order to make the treatment airborne. You can find these at a garden center or nursery.
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In general, your best way of preventing bud rot it from getting out of hand is by always being aware and keeping a close eye of your plants.
Inspect them regularly for signs of gray mold or any other potentially harmful conditions.
Take note of any changes, especially when your plant is in the later stages of its flowering phase.
Keep an eye on the weather, as well.
It could tell you a lot about when to be the most suspicious of bud rot on your cannabis plants such as just after cooler temperatures and rainy days.
When you do know that rain is coming, you can simply cover all of your plants with a tarp to block the worst of it.
Make sure you don’t actually put the tarp on top of the plants because it would risk damaging your buds. Instead, hang it above your plants for maximum protection.
Make sure the tarp is held up by the middle rather than the sides so as not to allow the water to collect in the center.
An alternative would be to simply go to your plants after rain and shake them.
This will keep water droplets from becoming a comfortable place for the mold to breed.
Symptoms of bud rot
- Edges of leaves will look brown or burnt
- Leaves turn darker or purple in color
- Spots on the leaves
- Abnormal growth of the leaves
- Visible mold
Not seeing any of the symptoms above on your plant? Check out our list of marijuana disease symptoms!
More advice for fixing bud rot
It is never a good idea to use fungicides while your plant is in its flowering stage.
You also shouldn’t spray the buds that have been affected with Neem oil or burn sulfur when your plants are in their flowering phase.
It won’t provide an effective means of combating and preventing bud rot in cannabis plants, and it will ruin the taste and smell of your bud, thus making all your hard work pointless anyway!
Fungicides are only okay to use during your plant’s vegetative phase of life.
As a good rule of thumb, you should know once you have a bud rot problem that the environment that your plants are growing in too cool and too humid with not enough airflow.
If you are growing indoors, once you have removed the original bud rot to avoid future infestations of and to be able to detect bud rot in your cannabis buds.
If, however, you are absolutely unable to change your environment, you need to be realistic with yourself.
The climate isn’t going to change, and your plants have already been infected once.
Do you really think that this will stop being a problem as soon as you discard the plants that have visible signs of bud rot? Probably not.
Having buds that were harvested early and therefore never reached their full size and potency potential is still far better than losing most of your buds to bud rot, so we must work to prevent bud rot.
If you do harvest them early, you need to be especially careful during the drying process when mold can become an issue.
While generally, you would want to try and dry your buds through a slow-drying process.
In this case, you should dry them as fast as realistically possible with lots of consistent air movement.
Remember that plants with strong genetics have less chance of getting sick and are less vulnerable to pests and diseases.
Using the correct nutrients and plant protector will get you a long way and your plants will have less chance of getting sick, in addition of being less vulnerable for pests and diseases. I have created multiple grow sets which features all you need in order to grow healthy plants from seed to harvest!
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FAQ about bud rot
What does bud rot look like?
When bud rot first attacks it forms a brownish-gray mycelium mass. The area is then covered by fungal spores, which eventually make the plant turn yellow. It might also appear as white mold on the exterior of your buds.
Is bud rot contagious?
Yes, bud rot is highly contagious. Once one plant comes into contact with gray mold spores, it can easily get to the next plant through a tear. The spores can also be transported from one plant to the next by wind or water.
Can you stop bud rot?
There are several measures you can take to stop bud rot from spreading. You can prune the infected leaves and buds. But you’ll need to sanitize your pruners afterwards.
You can also remove the infested plants to keep them from infecting the healthy plants. Put them in tightly sealed plastic bags and destroy or throw them away.
Other treatment methods that can keep bud rot under control include the use of a copper sulfate and slaked line mixture, copper soap/spray, and sulfur burners, to mention a few.
How Fast Does Bud Rot Spread?
Bud rot can spread to the other colas of your cannabis in as little as 12 hours. But, the changes to your cannabis’ buds and pistils won’t appear until a day has passed. This is because bud rot spreads from the inside out, which makes it particularly hard to spot in its early stages.
Does Bud Rot Spread to Other Plants?
Bud rot can spread to other plants, but not before fully infecting the plant it appeared from. This gives you time to remove the infected plant by removing it and disposing of it in a sealed bag that will be kept away from other plants.
Thanks for reading. Please leave comments or questions below and don’t forget to download my free grow bible.
Happy growing!
Robert
Since Bug Blaster and Mold Control are both sprayed onto the plants, can the two mixtures be combined and sprayed at the same time?
Hi Vince,
Thanks for your message. Yes, this can be done. However, keep in mind that mold control is used mostly to combat existing infestations, whereas the bug blaster can also be used preventatively. But if you feel the need to apply both, you can use them simultaneously.
Is dipping buds (bud washing) in a peroxide solution after cutting for harvest effective for preventing bud rot during the drying phase? Is it safe to smoke flower that has been dipped in peroxide?
Post-harvest bud washing can help reduce surface contaminants, including mold spores, by physically rinsing them off the flowers. Using a hydrogen peroxide solution in the wash may provide additional antimicrobial benefits, as hydrogen peroxide can help kill some bacteria and mold spores.
However, it’s important to note that while bud washing can reduce the presence of mold spores on the surface of the buds, it may not eliminate all spores, especially those that have penetrated the buds or those that are embedded within the plant material. Additionally, if mold has already developed on the buds, washing may not be effective in removing it.
Regarding appearance, bud washing can negatively affect bag appeal. When buds are washed, they can become discolored, lose their trichomes (the small, hair-like structures that contain cannabinoids and terpenes), and may appear less frosty or vibrant. The washing process can also lead to the buds looking more wet or washed out, which can detract from their overall aesthetic appeal.
Overall, while bud washing can have some benefits for cleanliness, care should be taken to minimize impact on the buds’ appearance and quality.
Great information if you want to be a very good outdoor grower . I purchased the grow bible about a month ago and it has anything and everything that you would want to do very well growing weed indoors or out. If you’re serious about growing. I would purchase a grow bible. Thank the
For all indoor growers, … running a small air-filter … WITH AN IONIZER, I’m pretty sure, reduces the chance of molds and fungus. Vacuuming is good for removing floor and growing pots debris. I heard that grey mold only occurs on leaves, primarily, so remove the dead ones.
About the IONIZER, I think a healthy forest has a high ionic (?not sure of the units?), content..?…
Also, I highly recommend (this is a genuine good tip, besides the IONIZER, addition)….The tip is this. Walmart has $10 LED 4-foot plant lights, tubes, that work on traditional 4-foot tube work lights, just like school and business lighting (that used the mercury-vapor fluorescent, that we all know).
The one that I have used on 1/2 of my grow room have notable greater grow rate and darker green leaves. In addition to the four-foot long power thingy from harbor freight with either a 2700Kor 5000K lcd bulb in each socket (using a GE socket for 1 bulb……from WMarty-io). I would like to find higher color-temp, 5000K-6000K LCD bulbs, I think, but haven’t found them, as of yet. I grow hydroponic-ly, …. I don’t have experience growing in soil. I put 2 stones in each of 4-nutrient & water (18gal-searlite-rectangular plastic storage) containers; will use stronger containers, next time. I don’t have a circulating water system, from container to container, but I measure ppm, temp, and pH and adjust, each container and have. For people to try this, (it’s working ok), … just make sure it is always powered, (constantly bubbling, bubblers) 12 hours off, it will be ok, the pH at or a tiny-bit below 6.0, the water temp at 82F will kill the plants, so, never above 80F, ideally at 70F; I’m trying to keep the ppm at 750, (I need to check the iglm ppm chart for time-ppm recommended level). I have 2 california dream plants, the rest are OG kush, which cloned very well using circular 1/2-cut rockwool and a root hormone dip,,,, …. (the supposed OG Kush, was from a 10g bag of very-weak pot that was loaded with seeds (that is why the weed was weak….because of so many seeds, butttttt, I had about 60 seeds,,,,,; I was bummed then, when I got the weak pot, but it was a blessing in disguise, as I hoped it was the seeds that took the plant’s energy, and it was, …. It keeps getting stronger (I quick dry-cure it using a little oven-toaster at around 175-200F for 15 to 25 minutes)….(I know, it’s not the best method, but when there is nothing to toke, and then weeks needed for drying and curing, … I think THC-H transforms to THC-good, at around 250F) I did toast one batch, initially, … Brown toasted weed is not good, green dried is good, also, I cut up the budds before quick dry-curing to get that 250F temp in the buds. This is all stuff that I have learned from reading from you guys, …….THANK YOU, my compadre-etta is a severe auto collision victim, who has constant pain, 3 neck discs fused, hip needs replacing, headaches, and cannot stand or survive on the horrid, poppy, heroin-based drugs. They are a horrible joke of a great temporary medication, that people cannot maintain their lives taking. Sorry I loaded my story on you guys. Let me know if you have any suggestions. I do operate on a low budget. Oh yeah, the 2700K and 5000k light bulbs and the individual socket plugs are at WallyWorld. Everybody have a great new year with a new pres….I hope he and the hopefully, Democraticly-controlled Senate, will push federal pot legalization. That one thing…do the 70,000,000 people who voted for Rump and support the REP’s …. Do they know that Rump and his REP side are in no way favoring pot-legalization? Do they know what they are voting for????? Do they know what the REP Senate does? It easily blocks DEM progressive legislation. That is what it has always done. The most powerful US official is Mitch Mcconnell, it is not the president. He just got re-elected for 6 more years.
If you know anybody in Georgia, please get them to vote the DEMOCRATIC senators, in the upcoming Georgia-Senate run-off. Pay them,,,, do anything for the voters, your friends or relatives in GA, the DEM’s need two more senators, to claim the Senate Control and to introduce POT LEGISLATION. THAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE….Take care people….. Presidents come and go,,,,, but US legislation affects and changes ALL OF OUR LIVES.
My outdoor buds I’m one plant only some of the tips of the buds are bright yellow is this from frost or?
Ive just cut down and started drying my plants there no buds only seeds coming off them !!!
Happen even faster on mature plants..some times the cause is over mature plants, ripe..
Hey, last year I grew Bruce banner from your seeds and it ended up with bud rot. I order new types this year hoping it will not happen again. I live in WV. This year I had one chem dog and one lsd not sprout. All the others did ok. I changed the potting soil and pots this year. Bought cheap shit last year, went with miricle grow for in ground and 25 gallon fabric pots this year. Tried copper last year got some neem oil for this year. Any advice. I bought my seeds and fertilizer from you last year. You didn’t have the fertilizer this year.
Hi mate I’ve discovered this rot in my bud and people are telling me the whole plant is no good now. Can I just get rid of that bud as long as there is no more appears while drying out the rest can you plz email me urgently thankyou from Jarrod
If i cut out all infected areas of budrot and hang plant for drying, will This rot continue to spread while drying?
covering your plants with a tarp is a BAD IDEA. plants transpire a shit ton of water, when you cover a plant with a tarp it will create a microclimate that is extremely high in humidity.
Also-shaking a wet plant is a BAD IDEA. like you said, what you want to avoid is water getting into hard to reach places. when you shake the plant, youre forcing water into places it wouldnt normally go when it just plainly rains vertically. if you shake you create water droplets that go EVERYWHERE. the tight spaces in the buds dont always get wet when it rains, but if you shake your plant you give it more of a chance of getting in there. shaking it doesnt even get rid of that much water.
Got educated on bud Rot which showed up late in the season last year,thanks for the excellent article
I grow outside and are the last couple years have had problems with mold what is the best thing to do? Do the mold resistant seeds work? I’ve tried the copper spray and is it really safe to use all the way to harvest? I would appreciate your input thank you very much
Sulphur pots were the old way. Sometimes we may lose the plants if mold get to good of a foot hold. Best for you to join our support forum where you can fill out a support ticket and add somme images for us to better help you. The blog is not really set up for extensive grow support. thanks
I found mold on my plants. How can this happen when I have humidity at 40-50 rh, temperature at 69-80 f. And I have very good circulation (3) fans plus intake and exhaust fans. I can’t understand where I am going wrong.
Edward, Join our forum and show us some pictures. ilgmforum.com There we are set up to help you to solve your issues. Happy growing
Ok got Springs #4 ph 5.8. Planting Out Doors again in pots 15 Gal.Useing Nous..Got really tough $/ $ any. Suggestions
Scott, I can not decipher what you are asking or commenting on. PLease just join our forum for guidance. ilgmforum.com Happy growing 🙂
This happend to me and had no clue what it was
Thank you for this
I’ve grown outdoors in a greenhouse (25′ X 50′) for the last 5 years. I have found anything with “Skunk” in the name molds quickly after flowers develop. I grow in the Northeast.
It’s almost impossible in my area of the South to mature thick budded weed in October outdoors without fungicide sprays. I’ve grown early September maturing Indicas without them. I have pure Sativas still maturing in late November without fungicides.
I spray once a week with Elevate(fenhexamid) or Pristine(pyraclostrobin/boscalid) beginning once the buds first begin to cluster. Both of those fungicides are used on strawberries and other crops with a zero day preharvest interval. Fenhexamid is often used as a postharvest wash on picked fruit to prevent storage or shelf rot. Fenhexamid is extremely effective but it needs to be rotated with another type fungicide with a different mode of action to prevent botrytis from gaining resistance to the fungicides. In some areas botrytis is already resistant to Pristine fungicide. Another relatively safe and effective fungicide is Switch((cyprodinil/fludioxinil). As far as cost goes, I bought 2 lbs. last year off of Ebay for a little over fifty dollars. I don’t buy Pristine as it is only available in large sizes that are extremely expensive. I buy Pageant which is exactly the same thing but the label is for floriculture, etc. It costs about $120. You can buy Switch on Ebay from European sources in small, relatively inexpensive quantities. Unlike in the US, major pesticides are packaged and marketed in small quantities and made available to homeowners and small growers.
I’m sure this post will ruffle feathers but it shouldn’t unless you don’t eat anything grown by commercial farmers, otherwise you’d be hypocritical.
So if i cut the mold out is it still gonna b ok to smoke what wasnt molded on same plant
I thought this blog article was about bud rot…
Mold. Bad issue. If you can clearly remove all affected buds, you should be able to smoke what is left. However: If you have mold spores in the air; I would hope for a g=fast harvest, if possible. Join our forum and show us some pictures. Many willing to help support newcomers. 🙂
i’m growing outdoors and removed several caterpillars and cut a bud down since it looked like there was some bud rot in the middle. am in in big trouble? it’s been hot lately so that should slow any mold growth, right?
mke,
I advise you to join our support forum. We will be glad to help you there.
In order to give you informed advice si to discuss your grow environment, methods, and help you get back on track.
ilgmforum.com
*sigh*. In dire need of help here. Grew two plants this summer, both developed bud rot about a week apart. I pulled the first plant, dried it, & the buds are curing well. I pulled the second plant & it’s been drying for a couple of days. It seems like the bud rot is continuing to show up on the biggest, fattest buds 🙁 but I can’t be entirely sure. The big buds are SOPPING wet & sticky, which I initially thought was a good thing, but now I’m not so sure. I hate the thought of losing all of the buds, because there are some real beauties that don’t seem to have been bothered. Yet.
What I’m seeing is buds that are just way too wet, with light brownish bits that I thought were nice pistils. Even though they’ve been drying a couple of days, they pull apart easily & are really damp inside.
Guess I’m just hoping someone will have words of encouragement…
Mitchell,
I think I answered this question for you in another article…
Break it up and let it dry. Pick out the rotten part, and hope for the best.
Thanks very much! Followed your advice & now it’s all drying & my fingers are cramped from being crossed 🙂
Chuck H. Yes
skunk is a demon for mould, but I wouldn’t grow anything else
I know this is a old thread, but try wood ash, works well and non toxic!
damn, wish I could delete my post. I suppose that’ll teach me to actually READ the ENTIRE paragraph before adding “my 2 cents”. Sorry, post is spot on, the alcohol was referring to cleaning the cutting tools, not the buds. My bad.
Hi Courtney,
I will delete the comment you are referring to, no problem! 🙂
Stacy
Ilovegrowingmarijuana
Courtney, the article was referring to cleaning your pruning tools with alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, not the budz themselves. Great info though, didn’t know that about the alcohol and bud oil. If the alcohol strips the thc from the budz, can you use the alcohol to smoke? Is all the thc removed from the bud when you use the alcohol? thanks
I harvested some super nice Chocolope. It did have bud rot on the smaller stems. I tried to cut it all off and leave just the good stuff, but I am worried about smoking it or offering to friends to smoke. It smells nice. Dried nice. Just a very little of the brown inside stems is visible. What should I do?
Another option is getting a spray bottle and filling it with distilled water and about 2 tbsp. of apple cider vinegar. Give it a shake and spray that all over the plants (even the healthy ones… they seem to love it!?). Definitely helps with controlling things like bud rot and gray mold
[…] easily get trapped in your marijuana plants’ buds, causing a buildup and then the formation of mold over the course of several days or […]
so i am confused….you say you can use copper soap (aka copper octanoate) until the day of harvest, then a few paragraphs down you state that you should never use any fungicides during the flowering stage (?). I would really like to find some info on using copper soap on marijuana buds during the flowering stage to combat PM. It is different from other copper applications because it does not linger on the bud, telling you to re apply after rain, and right on the bottle it lists tobacco as a crop for use on with no special instructions (as in: do not use with so many months of harvest) and we all know tobacco is grown to be smoked primarily. Copper Octanoate seems to have a very low toxicity profile as well. It reads on the bottle on Bonide Liquid Copper that you can safely use on fruits and vegetables right up until the day of harvest.
Thoughts anyone?
sonny,
I suggest you follow the directions on the bottle. Robert did say you could use this product until finish. From what you posted, it appears that the directions confirm what Robert stated in the “Get rid of…” section of this blog post.
You can also call the company and ask their opinion. Tell them this is in reference to your tomatoes.
I suggest you join our support forum. We have many great members and staff that are always willing to help out a fellow grower.
Thanks I always kan use advice.
Ben,
If you removed all the damaged matter from the bud, you should be alright if you can dry and cure it successfully with no further occurrence.
Hi I have just harvest my crop a week early as I noticed bud rot I removed all Tht I could see of bud rot and left in dark tent with small fan do you think it will be ok ???
I noticed in the article that Neem oil is suggested as one way to control the problem. I have had intermittent infestations of spider mite, but no fungal problems as far as I can see, however, after reading this I will take a closer look at the Jack Herer I just harvested. (got my seeds here and the plants were awesome).
Anyway at the first signs of trouble I spray Neem oil on the plants, pots floor walls etc. When the buds are close to harvest, I avoid spraying them although I understand it will do no harm. I have to make several applications, but it has always controlled the spider mites. Maybe it has also helped prevent the bud rot. Pays to wash your hands before working with your plants.
P.s. to those who are interested,Customs is on to most of the seed banks an their stealth shipping methods.Be patitent,an in contact with your supplier,daily if need be.that way when you or they are notified of the siezure..you can get a warrenty on the missing beans,either another batch sent or discount on the next order.the risk we all take to get the best of the bunch,when it comes to self medication,the more ,the better, I can’t ever get enough, buddy rough!!
Robert has all the information a grower could ever need.Hes spread pretty thin these dayz ,with all the other projects he has going,Bergman lab to name one.im sure that project emptied the pocket real quick.so sell sell,sell to full back up.The genetics I’ve grown from ILGM are the upmost quality,an the smoke is proper.To teach the world to grow is the moral of my story ,an to all, happy growing
botrytis need uv light to end life cyclus,some sorts are better against b.(read mostly sativas or fluffy indicas),if u sow that your leaves who growes from cola turn mysterius yellow is probably sign of botrytis in your buds,cut them 3-5 cm down and be gentle to not spread that spores on other buds,turn that in dark bcs they need uv rays for full life cyclus and you can smoke it;)….
I advise you to buy something against botrytis bcs that is no1 enemy in grow rooms.
Thank you Robert agan for your information,everything is true what you say!!!
Thankyou for you concise thorough and honest advice, the author certainly seems a balanced individual
Positive vibes coming your way
Terri ,
It sounds like you have a spider mite infestation. I would not smoke any of the bud affected by the webs.
You are welcome to join our Support forum if you need help in the future, during your grow. lw
Hello I really need some help. This is my first grow of medical plants and I have white spider web like stuff on some of the buds, I am now drying the buds and the white stuff seems to be getting less, the buds look and smell great. But I am wondering what the white stuff is and if I can smoke it? Please help
I also live in Northern CA, growing in a greenhouse. Planted late, early July, various strains but purchased “teens”. , was waiting to see 10% amber before taken down to dry. This is my first grow. There were two large colas that started to turn brown, at first I was not alarmed until it began to look too odd to be normal. Turns out I am pretty sure grey mold in center of cola or bud rot (do not know difference).
I removed immediately and next day cut down everything even though I only saw just a few amber trichomes. Wanted to wait for a little more. I learned to never water at night and to place a fan in the GH during last weeks.
I was closing up all windows (screened) because I thought I was protecting them from the cold night air!! Maybe some mold resistant strains next time too.
[…] Another step can be to change clothes or wear protective gear before going into your grow room. The spores can attach themselves to clothing fibers and then release in the grow room if the environment feels appropriate. If all else fails and your plants develop gray mold, there a few different soaps and sprays you can use to help mitigate the damage and treat the plant. Marijuana Plant Protector is the best solution. Read more about Bud rot on marijuana plants […]
It sound like your humidity is too high.
Is it mold or bud rot?
If you remove all damaged areas and dry in a cool dark DRY area, then you should be OK.
I suggest you join our Support forum for more detailed guidance on this issue.
I found bud rot in one of my plants. I carefully removed the infected buds, increased the air flow and I’m wondering if the other plants in the green house should be harvested asap, and will the smoke be safe? It sounds as if the mold issue continues after drying, is this correct?
Mold cannot exist in an alkaline environment. If the area you have infected with mold is at the stem base (nodes); You could use a baking soda and water mixture. TBS. peer gallon. The high PH, or alkaline environment will kill the mold.
I got my starts in May. I have read that they take 9 to 12 weeks to flower, after 9 to 12 weeks of veg, and it looks like that is true for this strain..WW. I am getting big coloas just not so much of the tell tale sign of the resin the WW have. Normally, they are ready weeks ago.
What part of the country are you in?
You have a whole month more to go?? When did you plant? I planted May 1 and I think they’re almost ready.
So here is my take on grey mold. I live in the great north coast of California in the emerald triangle and every year I get accosted by the stuff. Just the other day I was clearing foliage from the lower part of my WW plants and saw the tell tale signs of mold. It was visable at the nodes. I cut the affected stem off then wrap the affected area with a thin strip of paper towel and tie it on there with string or some plant tape. Then i just grab the cooking oil and spoon some on to saturate the paper towel. For the most part, it stops the growth by suffocating the spoors.
Now, it’s just a matter of keeping on it and thin the plant out of the smaller interior stems that won’t be any good at harvest. I have about a month before harvest. My fingers are crossed.
Tom,
If it were me; I would harvest before any more damage occurs. Sounds like you were basically finished anyway. 🙂
Thanks i chopped dried n it came out good. My friends havein the same issue with a larger crop what’s the fastest way to dry!?
Tom,
There is no shortcut, unless you want to sacrifice quality and taste. Make sure you have a lot of good air circulation, but do not have fans consistently pointing in one area of drying buds.
If I feel that the humidity is too high to allow for fast and even drying (7-14 days) without developing mold; I put them in brown paper bags in the room with a lot of fans and a small opening fashioned to allow air in the bag. The reason we use a brown paper bag is that it dries the inner part of the bud.
So; If you need to, by placing harvest in paper bag, you can dry the inside and the outside, just a bit faster.
Hope this helps. lw
Hi my plants are about 45 day in flowering,soil pots, one is 1 1/2 feet tall other is 2 1/2 and they look about done, most pistils are orange curling down, thick buds trichomes are hazy and dank smelling.I jus noticed 2 mold spots on 2 leafs! I took the pieces off carefully with a damp paper town and turned the fan off while I did it as i was told my a friend. Not my issue is that I don’t have a dehumidifier to keep the H down low. I’ve used only water the last 4 waterings. Should I just let them dry up in the pot a couple more days then 24 hour dark to start harvest? I just don’t want to get mold and bud rot!
Hey all, I just finished up a grow last week. my Jack Herer had 5 colas that had bud rot! All that work and I got about and ounce of weed. The colas were beautiful and I saw nothing until it was to late! I have to watch closer next time. Mike
Hey Micheal, Thanks for sharing, So sorry that happened, but it adds to your growing experience, next time you’ll do much better!
[…] Another step can be to change clothes or wear protective gear before going into your grow room. The spores can attach themselves to clothing fibers and then release in the grow room if the environment feels appropriate. If all else fails and your plants develop gray mold, there a few different soaps and sprays you can use to help mitigate the damage and treat the plant. Marijuana Plant Protector is the best solution. Read more about Bud rot on marijuana plants […]
It is so hard to suggest remedies for growers without proper input for our expert growers to consider. Please join our support forum, and post a topic with your plant issues. It will be much easier for our team of experts to help you out. I also recommend filling out a “Support Ticket”; Easily found in the Support Forum. 🙂
How can I do that?
Is this wild bill from birdland
What about foliar feeding with peroxide to stop gray mold
Stating the obvious over and over does not kill grey mold.
[…] Bud rot […]
wont the copper sulfate on the buds combust when the weed is smoked? I heard the fumes are really toxic
Hi…I have one out of 15 plants that is displaying a bunch of grey mold on the stem. Is there anything I can treat this with before it effects the actual budding process? Im about a month or so from harvest. Also all 15 plants are in the same location…is it normal for just one plant to get it….dont get me wrong….THANK GOD it only hit one!
There’s a stuff called trifecta crop control this stuff is perfect you could use it all the way up to last week of flowering
If budrot attacks can I cut buds into som iso and save Hash?